![]() Such a poor connection would probably asl show signs of having been very hot. In such case, you would have measured somewhere around half voltage across the element and the other half across the bad connection. You must have had a bad connection that was dropping about half of the voltage and so lowering the heat capacity. (As AC electricity it is actually two legs that are 180 degrees out of phase but they work in a push/pull effect.) If you remove either of the legs from that element, the result is that no current can flow so no heat. Then untwist your wire joints with a few turns. So you should be able to take the wire nut off with a few turns. People often overlook the fact that wire nuts, like wagos, are just meant to protect the wire joint. Your water heater element has what amounts to +120V on one end of the element and -120Vtothe other, giving you an effective voltage of 240V. A properly connected wire nut should only take a few turns to seal the wire joint and unseal the wire joint. A house has two legs from a 240V transformer that has a center tap tied to neutral and each phase is then 120v to the neutral line. Use these as alternatives to wire nuts.These work with 12-24 AWG wires, and can handle over 10 Amps. The reason that I asked for the explanation is that as a career electrical service technician, I think you missed something. Easy-to-Use wire connector with levers that clamp down to securely hold the wires. My hot water heater would only get warm because was only getting 110 and not 220. John T Longggggggggggg retired n rusty electrical engineer NOT up on the latest Codes and practices SO NO WARRANTY, things may have changed grrrrrrrrrrrrrr lol ![]() While typically not required a person could solder wires then then use wire nuts for added coverage, mechanical strength and protection, with tape to follow, but proper wire nut installation with added twists and expansion loops for vibration and expansion/contraction was all "usually" necessary.……. WAGOs 221 series compact splicing connectors are designed to easily terminate conductors in 2. In the workshops and seminars and when we instructed our electricians and contractors we stressed for added mechanical strength there be a few extra wire turns outside the nuts themselves and where room allowed there be adequate slack and loops to allow for vibration and expansion/contraction. If installed PROPERLY I saw few failures. In my professional life in the electrical industry (Power Distribution) it was my experience and observation that when such a failure occurred, IT WAS OFTEN "NOT" THE WIRE NUTS THEMSELVES BUT THEIR IMPROPER INSTALLATION. My question is, is wire nuts a good practice in this area ![]()
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